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Sierra Valdivieso + Laguna Esmeralda Circuit

Ushuaia, Argentina

This is a page with tips for those who want to do the Sierra Valdivieso Circuit, being a complement to the book The Most Beautiful Trails of Patagonia. In this page you can see some photos and the list of trails that are part of the book. To purchase your book, send your zip code and country to livros@ricardoferes.com or WhatsApp +55 11 99314-3211 and I will send you the total cost, including shipping.

Days: 4
Distance: 54 km / 33.5 mi
Total ascent: 2,500 m / 8,200 ft
Download tracklog at Wikiloc

Best season
From the middle of December to March, before it is possible that the lagoons are frozen.

How to get there
There are several flights to Ushuaia and, from the city to the beginning of the trail, you need to take a taxi / remis. If you didn’t set a date and place to be rescued at the end of the trail, walk for a few minutes towards the city to get a cell phone signal or some kilometers in the other direction until Laguna Esmeralda trail parking lot, where you can hitchhike or pay to go back in a shuttle van.

Costs
As the circuit is not in a national park and the campsites are free, there are no costs.

Where to eat, sleep and trail marking
The trail is well marked only until Laguna Esmeralda, then the signs are sporadic or null. In some places, especially on the last day, it is necessary to make your way through the forest to look for the next section of the trail. The descent from Albino Glacier to Beban River Valley has no signage, as it is not a known route, so it is essential to know how to navigate and have a map + compass or GPS.

Day by day
This trail linking Laguna Esmeralda with Sierra Valdivieso Circuit and also with Paso Cinco Lagunas was born because I wanted to make the traditional circuit even more interesting. The path described below is as or more beautiful than many of the other Patagonian trekkings, which are more famous. More information about the region, as well as many beautiful photos, you can find in the book The Most Beautiful Trails of Patagonia, click here to see a preview..

Day 1
RN3 road – Beban River Valley campsite
Distance: 12.3 km / 7.6 mi
Total ascent: 930 m / 3,051 ft

Laguna Esmeralda is one of the most famous tourist spots in Ushuaia, so leave early to arrive at the lagoon before tourist groups. Go around the lagoon and climb to Ojo del Albino Glacier following a few totems on the way.

The descent will be made on the other side of the mountain and it is not a path taken by anyone, so it is necessary to know how to choose the path well and be aware that, if an accident happens, it will be very difficult to get help, since it is a very steep place.

This is the descent from Ojo del Albino Glacier to Beban River valley. The river is a little bit lower, in the photo it is covered by the hill I’m on. As the slope is steep and the rocks are slippery due to the melting snow, I choose to descent walking inside the cracks, to have better support for my hands, but this must be evaluated depending on the conditions on the day.

Upon arriving in the Beban River Valley you will find some markings, but you need to be aware and do not trust only in these markings.

There are some good spots to camp in the valley and, if you are rested, you can go a little further or even cross Paso Beban, but think if you can reach the next good camping spot.

Day 2
Beban River Valley campsite – Laguna Azul
Distance: 11.4 km / 7 mi
Total ascent: 640 m / 2,100 ft

After crossing Paso Beban, you will find the first castoreras, the dams made by beavers.

The day ends at Laguna Azul, the most beautiful spot of the entire circuit. However, this camping area is not well protected from the winds, so if the wind forecast is bad or you think it might get worse at night, go back and camp at a lower point.

Day 3
Laguna Azul – Vale Mariposa campsite
Distance: 12.1 km / 7.5 mi
Total ascent: 700 m / 2,296 ft

The third day begins with the Paso Mariposa crossing, where you will have incredible views of Laguna Azul on one side and Laguna Mariposa on the other. Then, head towards Lake Fagnano to see some more lagoons and a beautiful waterfall. Finally, camp on the last lagoon before starting down towards Ushuaia.

Day 4
Mariposa Valley – RN3 road
Distance: 17.9 km / 11.1 mi
Total ascent: 230 m / 754 ft

The fourth day has some beautiful landscapes, like waterfalls, but in general it is the least interesting day, as you walk for a long time on peat, a spongy and humid floor, sometimes sinking a good part of the leg and leaving your boots always wet.

There are points where the trail leaves the peat and enters the forest, but the path is often without signs or interrupted by fallen trees.

Useful links