Introduction

The Argentine northwest is a region of impressive natural beauty, charming villages, beautiful cities, rich history and culture, great cuisine and, even so, it is much less know than San Pedro de Atacama, in Chile, but just is on the other side of the Andes.

By no means am I going to write that Atacama should not be visited as it is an incredible region, but if you, like me, prefer places that are not too touristy, put NOA on your list because I am sure you will be delighted. Below I show you an itinerary of what I liked the most after doing two road trips there.

Northwest Argentina is the clearest area on the map, which includes the provinces of Jujuy, Salta, Catamarca, Tucumán, La Rioja and Santiago del Estero. Map taken from Google Maps.

Best season

In the summer there is more green in the mountains, reducing the aridity of the landscapes a little, but, on the other hand, there are more chances of cloudy and rainy days. On winter nights, the cold is intense, especially in the highest part of the route, with lows up to minus 10° C (14° F), but it is virtually certain that it will not rain even once during your trip. That is, it is possible to go all year round, it depends on the climate you prefer.

Do I need a 4WD?

On the map below, the route shown in green can be taken even by compact cars at any time of the year. The path in red is best done in a 4WD, as there may be some landslides caused by heavy rain in summer or heavy snow in winter, but this is unlikely to happen. Anyway, on this stretch it’s important to have a high car, even if it’s 4×2.

Satellite image taken from Google Earth.

I will describe this route clockwise, but it is the same to do it in the opposite direction, it all depends on where you are going to travel after visiting NOA.

I put a day-by-day suggestion below to make it easier to read, but it all depends on how much time you have and how much you want to spent in each place, as it is possible to spend many days more doing the same route, since there are so many places to visit.

Tracklog for GPS

Click here to download from Wikiloc the section from Hualfín to San Antonio de los Cobres, as the rest of the route is easily navigable using Google Maps.

Day 1 – Salta to Cachi

The city of Salta is the capital of the province of Salta and has 627,000 inhabitants (2022 Census), which places it among the 10 most populous in Argentina. Considering its size, it is a clean, organized, safe city that deserves the nickname La Linda (The Beautiful), as it is called by Argentines. It is the largest city for the NOA circuit and deserves a day or two to visit Cerro San Bernardo, which offers a panoramic view of the city, the Museum of High Mountain Archeology, with its mummies and vast collection, to wander in the beautiful historic center and eat very well, as I did at La Nueva Criollita restaurant. To sleep, I recommend Hotel Tramas Andinas, which has a large and comfortable room, excellent shower, fast wifi and very good breakfast for Argentine standards. This hotel is not very close to the center, but for those with a car, it’s not a problem and they have a good parking lot.

The first main natural attraction on the route is Quebrada de las Conchas, which is close to Cafayate. It is possible to go straight along Ruta 68, but I recommend taking a slightly longer detour, which is much more beautiful, passing through Cachi.

Cachi is one of the 16 Argentine villages (the only one in the province of Salta) with the title of “Pueblo Auténtico” (Authentic Village) for preserving its identity in various aspects, such as culture, architecture, gastronomy, history, etc. In addition to being a small and charming city, I really liked the views from the road, both between Salta and Cachi, but mainly between Cachi and Cafayate. Leaving Salta very early, it is possible to do the entire route from Salta to Cafayate in one day, but as you have to drive slowly and there are many lookouts to enjoy the view, I recommend doing it in two days so that you can appreciate everything with no rush, including the wineries.

This is the Cabildo Histórico of Salta, which has a well-maintained historic center and can be seen in a few hours of walking.

Salta seen from Cerro San Bernardo, that can be reached by car, on foot or cable car.

Day 2 – Cachi to Cafayate

Ruta 40 is considered the most beautiful road in Argentina and the stretch between Cachi and Cafayate is no exception, with incredible landscapes, especially in the region of Angastaco Natural Monument. Without making stops, it takes about 3 and a half hours to ride this path, but consider at least 5 hours because the view will make you stop many times. In the afternoon you can enjoy the beautiful city of Cafayate or visit the nearby wineries. In the city, Casa de las Empanadas makes very good empanadas, but very small, and if you want a tasty alfajor, I recommend Calchaquitos.

Cafayate main square and Nuestra Señora de Rosario Cathedral.

Ruta 40, the most famous and beautiful road in Argentina.

Monumento Natural de Angastaco at Ruta 40.

Day 3 – Quebrada de las Conchas

Only 12 km (7.5 mi) from Cafayate, you must visit Quebrada de las Conchas, a natural reserve with impressive geological formations that deserve a visit of at least half a day, if you only want to know what is very close to the road, or a whole day, if you also hike Los Estratos trail, which it is worth every step taken not only to see the formation that gives the trail its name, but also for the lookout at the end of the path.

Garganta del Diablo.

Los Castillos.

Los Colorados.

Los Estratos, geological formation reached by a 1.2 km trail / 0.7 mi (one way).

View at the end of Los Estratos trail, after 1.7 km / 1 mi (one way).

Day 4 – Cafayate to Hualfín

In the morning, I recommend hiking the Cascadas del Río Colorado Trail, where there is a sequence of beautiful and very cold waterfalls. As there are sections of scrambling, I recommend that you hire a guide, but if you have enough experience, it is allowed to do it on your own.

In the afternoon, head to Hualfín to spend the night. As Route 40 between Cafayate and Hualfín is not as beautiful as the previous section, you won’t spend a lot of time on this route. If you have time, you can head to Puerta del Corral Quemado or Villa Vil, where you will also find accommodation.

Before leaving Ruta 40, it is important to fill up your tank, as there are no gas stations until San Antonio de los Cobres. Even better is to take extra gallons of fuel because, in theory, it is possible to buy in Tolar Grande, but as it is an informal sale made in the village, I don’t think you can be completely confident that you will find gasoline or diesel.

take a look at the tourists on the trail to Cascadas de Cafayate, it is because of this stretch that it is recommended to hire a guide.

Swimming in the fourth waterfall on the trail.

Cafayate seen from the trail.

Day 5 – Hualfín to Tolar Grande

With a full tank of fuel, leave Ruta 40 shortly after Hualfín and start climbing the Andes on Ruta 43, which passes through several villages and many, many incredible landscapes. The pace will be slow, which helps with acclimatization, as you start the day at an altitude of 1,800 meters (5,900 ft) and go beyond 4,600 meters (15,100 ft) at the highest point of the road!

I have chosen the village of Tolar Grande as the final destination for that day, but there is so much to see on the way that, if you have time, sleep in Antofagasta de la Sierra or Antofallla, so you don’t have to rush.

Right at the beginning of the ascent, you will reach Villa Vil and then El Peñón, where Campo de Piedra Pomez is located, a volcanic rock with the appearance of foam. It’s a place that looks very interesting, but unfortunately I didn’t visit it and it’s on my list for the next trip.

After visiting Antofalla, the only town in Catamarca on the list of “Pueblos Auténticos” in Argentina, be sure to make a stop at Laguna Verde, in Salar de Antofalla. Even though it is not as green as you see in many of the photos (with absurdly saturated colors) on the internet, it is beautiful and, as there is no mass tourism here, you will be able to photograph it without unwanted people appearing in front of the camera.

Moving on, you will arrive in Antofallita, where you will find half a dozen houses before crossing a stream and starting a long climb, this being the only point that is a little harder to cross if you have a 4×2 car.

On this ascent you will leave behind Salar de Antofalla and, on the other side of the mountain, you will find Salar de Arizaro, where the most impressive geological formation of the NOA is located and one of the most beautiful I have ever seen, the Cono de Arita. This almost perfect cone is around 200 meters (650 ft) high, its base is at an altitude of 3,510 m (11,515 ft) and, as there is a wide salt plain around it, its shape stands out even more than if it were surrounded by mountains.

According to the geologist José Selléz-Martínez, professor at the University of Buenos Aires, Cono de Arita is not a volcano, in fact it was formed by erosion that, little by little, eliminated the materials that had around it. As I don’t have the knowledge to discuss geological matters, my interest consisted only in appreciating it and photographing it at different times of day and night.

The sun does not set so as to be framed along with the Cono, but the light is so beautiful that I recommend staying at the lookout until dark, as there are only 65 km to Tolar Grande, where you can spend the night.

Salar de Antofalla lookout.

Emus at Ruta 43.

Antofalla.

Aerial view of Laguna Verde in Antofalla. Notice that there are two people on the upper left side of the photo, next to the pond.

Laguna Verde in Antofalla.

Cono de Arita during sunset.

Aerial view of Cono de Arita and Salar de Arizaro.

Day 6 – Tolar Grande to San Antonio de los Cobres

Around Tolar Grande you can do short tours in the morning to visit El Arenal, Casas Cuevas and Ojos del Mar, then head to San Antonio de los Cobres along a beautiful road. I know I’m being repetitive, but when you see Desierto del Diablo, you’ll understand why I wrote this.

Another option, if you have time, is to sleep one more night in Tolar Grande to do a day trip to La Casualidad Mine, which I couldn’t do, but from the photos I saw, it’s worth the visit.

In San Antonio, I recommend eating at the Quinoa Real restaurant, where I ate two llama dishes and both were great.

Virgen del Valle church in Tolar Grande and, next to it, Casas Cuevas.

Strange hills lined up near Tolar Grande.

El Arenal in Tolar Grande.

Aerial view of Ojos de Mar inTolar Grande. To have a size reference, there is a person just below the lagoon on the left.

Ojos de Mar in Tolar Grande.

Desierto del Diablo, between Tolar Grande and Antofagasta de la Sierra.

Desierto del Diablo, between Tolar Grande and Antofagasta de la Sierra.

Day 7 – San Antonio de los Cobres to Purmamarca

From San Antonio to Salinas Grandes it is only 100 km, but it is not a road that you can drive fast, so consider that it will take you an hour and a half to reach one of the largest salt flats in the world. In Salinas Grandes there is still salt extraction and access is only allowed in a place close to the road, for a very cheap payment. To enter with the car and drive through the saline, it is necessary to hire a guide. As I had already crossed several salt flats and was still going to Uyuni, which is the largest in the world, I didn’t take this tour, but if you’ve never been to a salt flat, I believe it’s worth it.

After Salinas Grandes, you can go down the Cuesta de Lipán to Purmamarca, or drive a little further and go to San Francisco de Alfarcito, a small town 40 km in the opposite direction from Purmamarca. Oh, be careful not to confuse it with another village that is also called Alfarcito, but it is located in the province of Salta, right next to Jujuy.

The reason for extending this itinerary is so that you will get to know the two “Pueblos Auténticos” in the province of Jujuy: Alfarcito and Purmamarca. In case you don’t remember the description I wrote on Day 1, an “Authentic Pueblo” has this title because it preserves its identity in different aspects, such as culture, architecture, gastronomy, history, etc. There are only 16 in Argentina and four of them are part of the itinerary you are reading: Cachi, Antofalla, San Francisco de Alfarcito and Purmamarca.

If you want to eat or sleep in Alfarcito, contact them in advance because, as there is little tourism in the village, it is possible that you will find the lodgings and restaurants closed if you arrive unannounced.

The road to Purmamarca passes through the Cuesta de Lipán, which has beautiful views of the lower Andes, but the main attraction of this day, for me, is Purmamarca itself. The village is beautiful, an adjective that I have used to describe several other villages, what sets Purmamarca apart is Cerro de los Siete Colores. This hill can be seen from the village itself, but it’s even better to go up a short trail to the viewpoint that will leave you facing Purmamarca and the colorful mountain.

Aerial view of Salinas Grandes where the road split it.

Area open to visitors in Salinas Grandes.

Aerial view of San Francisco de Alfarcito.

San Francisco de Alfarcito.

San Francisco de Alfarcito.

Day 8 – Purmamarca to Tilcara

After wandering around the village and going up to the viewpoint, head to Tilcara, and as it is very close to Purmamarca, it is possible to visit Pucará de Tilcara and Jardín Botánico de Altura on the same day. Pucará is a fortification of the Andean people used to protect villages, and in Tilcara there are areas that have been reconstructed, allowing us to see what these fortresses were like. Next to Pucará there is a botanical garden with species typical of the altitude of the Andes.

In Tilcara there are other hikes and I did two: the trail to Garganta del Diablo and Cascada Natural, and also the trail to Cuevas de Waira.

If the name Garganta del Diablo sounds common to you, it’s because I’ve already described a homonymous formation in Quebrada de las Conchas, but the one in Tilcara is not so beautiful. The waterfall at the end of the trail, on the other hand, is disappointing, so only do this trail if you have plenty of time.

The trail to Cuevas de Waira is worth it just for the scenery of the trail, as the cave is not interesting if you have already been to others. There are no formations like stalactites, so only go if it’s something really new to you.

Purmamarca and Cerro de Siete Colores.

Pucará de Tilcara, an ancient fortification of the Andean people.

Pucará de Tilcara.

Cuevas de Waira.

Cascada Natural in Tilcara.

Dusk in Tilcara.

Day 9 – Tilcara to Humahuaca

The distance from Tilcara to Humahuaca is short and the road is good, making it possible to visit Hornocal, Humahuaca’s biggest attraction, even if you are spending the nights in Tilcara. However, as Humahuaca is beautiful, I think it’s worth spending at least one night to get to know it calmly and have more time to go to Serranía de Hornocal, which has the nickname Cerro de 14 Colores and is one of the most beautiful natural attractions of northwest Argentina. By the way, in my opinion, Cono de Arita and Hornocal are the NOA champions.

Serranía de Hornocal.

The incredible colors and shapes of Serranía de Hornocal.

Humahuaca.

Day 10 – Humahuaca to Iruya

If you still have the time and will to travel a little further, to the north is Iruya, a small town nestled in the Andes mountains, outside the so-called Quebrada de Humahuaca. The road to Iruya is beautiful and the place where the city is as well, but the city itself I found less interesting than all the others that I described in this itinerary. However, if you still go to Iruya, consider taking the trail to San Isidro de Iruya, a village that can only be reached by a 7 km hike (one way) and which is the attraction for anyone going to Iruya.

Road to Iruya.

The trail to San Isidro de Iruya almost always goes through the valley.