Introduction

The Argentine northwest is a region of impressive natural beauty, charming villages, beautiful cities, rich history and culture, great cuisine and, even so, it is much less know than Atacama Desert, in Chile, in the other side of the Andes.

By no means am I going to write that Atacama should not be visited as it is an incredible region, but if you, like me, prefer places that are not too touristy, put NOA (as Argentines call this area) on your list because I am sure you will be delighted. Below I show you the places that I liked the most after doing three road trips there.

Best season

In the summer there is more green in the mountains, reducing the aridity of the landscapes, but, on the other hand, there are more chances of cloudy and rainy days. On winter nights, the cold is intense, especially in the highest part of the route, with lows up to minus 10° C (14° F), but it is virtually certain that it will not rain even once during your trip. That is, it is possible to go all year round, it depends on the climate you prefer.

 

Do I need a 4×4?

Almost all of the routes on the map below can be done by car at any time of the year, but some attractions require the use of a 4×4 or at least a high-clearance vehicle. During the description of the attractions I mention which ones require a 4×4, but even if you don’t have one, you can trave to NOA because there is a lot to see and do with a 4×2 car.

 

Salta and San Salvador de Jujuy

The city of Salta is the capital of the province of Salta and has 627,000 inhabitants (2022 Census), which places it among the 10 most populous in Argentina. Considering its size, it is a clean, organized, safe city that deserves the nickname La Linda (The Beautiful), as it is called by Argentines. It is the largest city for the NOA circuit and deserves a day or two to visit Cerro San Bernardo, which offers a panoramic view of the city, the Museum of High Mountain Archeology, with its mummies and vast collection, to wander in the beautiful historic center and eat very well, as I did at La Nueva Criollita restaurant.

 

Purmamarca and Cerro de Siete Colores

For having preserved its original characteristics, Purmamarca is one of the 16 “Pueblos Auténticos” (Authentic Towns) in Argentina, a title given to towns that have preserved their identity in various aspects, such as culture, architecture, gastronomy, history, etc. In addition, the Cerro de Siete Colores (Seven Colors Hill) can be seen from the town itself, but it is even better to climb a short trail to the viewpoint that will let you facing Purmamarca and the colorful mountain. This trail that I am describing is not the same one that is inside the city, you need to climb the hill on the other side of the road to get the view in the photo below.

 

Tilcara

Compared to Purmamarca and Humahuaca, Tilcara is the city with the best tourist infrastructure. Its center is very interesting and, near the city, you can visit a pucará, which is a fortification of the Andean peoples to protect their villages. The Pucará of Tilcara has reconstructed areas, allowing visitors to see what these fortresses were like, and next to the Pucará there is a botanical garden with species typical of the high altitude of the Andes..

There are other tours in Tilcara and I did two: the trail that leads to Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) and Cascada Natural (Natural Waterfall), and also the trail to Cuevas de Waira. Honestly, I only recommend doing these trails if you have a lot of free time, because there are much more interesting things in the region.

 

Humahuaca and Serranía de Hornocal

The central area of ​​Humahuaca has some pretty streets and squares, but overall, I think Tilcara and Purmamarca are more interesting. The advantage of staying in Humahuaca is that it is closer to Hornocal and Puente del Diablo, two unmissable attractions of NOA.

 

Iruya and San Isidro de Iruya

North of Humahuaca is Iruya, a small town nestled in the Andean mountains, just outside Quebrada de Humahuaca. The road to Iruya is beautiful, as is the location of the town, but I found the town itself less interesting than all the others I described in this page. However, if you still go to Iruya, consider taking the trail to San Isidro de Iruya, a village that can only be reached by walking a 14 km (8.7 mi) trail (both ways) and which is the attraction for those who go to Iruya.

 

Puente del Diablo

One of the lesser-known places of the NOA, even though it is one of the most beautiful, is Puente del Diablo. This formation is rarely visited because the trail to get there takes about two hours, almost always uphill. Consider another hour and a half to return and the altitude of more than 4,000 m (13,100 ft) and that’s it, the trail will scare away anyone who is not in good physical condition or who has not fully acclimatized.

Click here to open my Wikiloc page and download the trail to Puente del Diablo.

 

Laguna de los Pozuelos Natural Monument

This large lagoon is home to around 130 species of birds, including the three types of flamingos found in Argentina. In fact, 87% of all Andean flamingos in the world live here, and since this is the most endangered species of flamingo, it makes perfect sense that it is a protected area.

You have to walk around 2 km (1,25 mi) to the shore of the lagoon, but unfortunately the flamingos are far from the shore, so you will only see them from a big distance and that is why I don’t think it is worth visiting Laguna de los Pozuelos.

 

Valle de la Luna and Cusi Cusi

Even less known than Puente del Diablo, but just as beautiful, is the Valle de la Luna, located near the village of Cusi Cusi. Don’t confuse it with the Valle de la Luna in the Atacama Desert, as Cusi Cusi, although much smaller, is more beautiful because of the different colors.

Cusi Cusi village is not as interesting as others described in this article, but it is a good place to spend the night if you visit Valle de la Luna at the end of the day, when the light is better for taking photos.

 

San Francisco de Alfarcito

A few paragraphs above I explained what a Pueblo Auténtico is when I talked about Purmamarca, and Alfarcito is another town with this title, but much smaller and less touristy. By the way, if you want to eat or stay here, it is a good idea to make a reservation in advance, otherwise you may not find anything open..

When typing Alfarcito in your GPS, be careful not to confuse it with another town also called Alfarcito, but in the province of Salta.

 

Salinas Grandes

This is one of the largest salt flats in the world and, since salt extraction still takes place here, access is only permitted in a location close to the road, for a very small fee. To enter by car and drive through the salt flat, you need to hire a guide. Since I have already crossed several salt flats, including Salar de Uyuni, the largest in the world, I did not take this tour, but if you have never been to a salt flat, I believe it is worth it.

 

Desierto del Diablo

On the way to Desierto del Diablo you will pass through San Antonio de los Cobres, which is not a pretty town, but if you stay there to acclimatize, I recommend you the Quinoa Real restaurant, where I ate two good llama dishes.

Between Tolar Grande and Pocitos you will find monochromatic mountains, but with beautiful shapes, and to make it even better, at the top of the point called Siete Curvas there is a viewpoint that provides beautiful photos of Desierto del Diablo.

 

 

Tolar Grande

This small village has little infrastructure for tourism, but it is still a good base for exploring the region’s many attractions. Of the accommodations I saw in 2025, the best was Casa Andina, the others were rooms in the residents’ houses and the price was almost the same.

Click here to open my Wikiloc page and download the route to Santa María Lagoon.

 

La Casualidad and Julia Mines

La Casualidad and Julia are two sulfur mines that were deactivated decades ago. I visited them only to help with acclimatization for climbing the Ojos del Salado volcano, because visiting mine ruins is not something that catches my attention, but it is a famous excursion, so I guess you can be interested.

La Casualidad Mine is located at an altitude of 4,075 m (13,370 ft) and has some buildings that, despite being in poor condition, can be used as shelter from the wind, making them good camping options.

Julia Mine is located at an altitude of 5,250 m (17,224 ft) and is a good place to spend a few hours to improve acclimatization, if you plan to climb one of the 6,000-meter (20,000-ft) volcanoes in the region.

 

Cono de Arita

In Salar de Arizaro, 65 km (40 mi) from Tolar Grande, lies the most impressive geological formation in the NOA and one of the most beautiful I have ever seen, the Arita Cone. This almost symmetrical cone is approximately 200 m (650 ft) high, its base is at an altitude of 3,510 m (11,515 ft) and, as there is a large salt flat surrounding it, its shape stands out even more than if it were surrounded by mountains.

According to geologist José Selléz-Martínez, a professor at the University of Buenos Aires, the Arita Cone is not a volcano, as many articles claim. In fact, it was formed by erosion that gradually eliminated the materials that were around it. Since I do not have the knowledge to discuss geological matters, my interest was simply to admire it and photograph it at different times of the day and night.

The sun doesn’t set in such a way that it can be framed with the Cono, but the light is so beautiful that I recommend staying at the viewpoint until it gets dark, when it casts its shadow across the Salar de Arizaro.

 

Salar de Antofalla

This is one of the largest salt flats in Argentina, but despite being 130 km (80 mi) long, it is only 15 (9 mi) km wide at its widest point. On the edge of the salt flat is Antofalla, the only town in the province of Catamarca on the list of “Pueblos Auténticos”, so be sure to take a walk through its streets and, if you want to stay overnight, there are some options in the town.

 

Diamante Lagoon and Galán Volcano Fumaroles

 

Sierra de Real Grande and Cañadón del Viento

You can get to Laguna Diamante via El Peñón, on a road that requires a 4×4 but is not very difficult, or via Antofagasta de la Sierra, passing through a field of petroglyphs, the narrow Cañadón del Viento and the Sierra de Real Grande. Even if you have a good 4×4, it is not recommended to do this route in just one vehicle, as it can take days for someone to pass by if you need help.

Antofagasta de la Sierra is the most well-structured city on the route between Hualfín and San Antonio de Los Cobres, with some lodges, food options and two gas stations, but they only accept cash. As the only ATM in the city usually doesn’t have cash, take plenty of cash with you because you can’t count on being able to withdraw money.

Click here to open my Wikiloc page and download the route to Laguna Diamante via Cañadón del Viento.

 

Viewpoint to Galán Volcano Caldera

To get to this viewpoint from El Peñón you don’t need a 4×4, but you will be at an altitude of 4,766 m (15,630 ft), so acclimatize beforehand.

 

Laguna Grande

Located 37 km (23 mi) from El Peñón, on the same road that leads to Diamante Lagoon from the south, you don’t need a 4×4 to get to this lagoon that, in the summer, is home to thousands of flamingos. Unlike Laguna de los Pozuelos, which I mentioned earlier in this article, here you can see them up close.

 

Laguna Carachi Pampa

A large and beautiful lagoon, but not one of the most interesting in the region. In any case, it is on the way to Campo de Piedra Pomez if you go directly from Antofagasta de la Sierra, without going through El Peñón. The route to the lagoon does not require a 4×4, but to continue on it is necessary because the section to Campo de Piedra Pomez is in poor condition.

 

Campo de Piedra Pomez

The shortest route to this unmissable attraction is via El Peñón and you need a 4×4, so if you don’t have one, hire an agency, because it’s definitely worth visiting.

Pumice is a rock of volcanic origin, with low density because it is very porous and this field has 750 km² (290 mi²) of this rock in the most varied formats, created by erosion during the last 100 thousand years..

 

Laguna Blanca

The village of Laguna Blanca was created in a region historically occupied by the Diaguita people, which today live in the countryside and the village, where they have some accommodations.

Located on the slopes of the volcano of the same name, which is 6,012 meters (19,724 ft) high, the village serves as a base for those who want to climb it, but since the village is 3,300 meters high, the climb is quite a long one. For those who don’t want to do such a strenuous trek, there is a museum, a botanical garden and a trail to see cave art.

 

Vuelta al Pissis

The Pissis volcano is the third highest point in the Americas, with 6,795 m (22,293 ft) above sea level. If you have a 4×4 and are good at off-road driving, the Vuelta al Pissis is a great option to see this volcano from all angles and also visit several other beautiful spots, such as La Herradura, Laguna Brava, Laguna Verde (another one with this name), Balcón del Pissis and the Volcancito, which is one of the most beautiful attractions in the Argentine Puna, in my opinion.

If you start the tour from the south, be aware that there is a police station in the town of Jagüe and they will only let you pass if you have hired a local guide, because Laguna Brava region is in a provincial reserve that has this rather strange rule. Therefore, I recommend that you start from the north and drive towards the attractions that I describe below.

Click here to open my Wikiloc page and download the Vuelta al Pissis route.

 

Balcón del Pissis

Viewpoint with a beautiful view of the lagoons and volcanoes, with Pissis in the distance standing out. Part of the path is full of potholes, but it is possible to do it in a 4×2 car, although it is advisable to have high-clearance.

 

Laguna Verde

Distant 35 km (22 mi) from Balcón del Pissis, this is one of the most beautiful lagoons in the Argentine Puna and can also be accessed by car. There is a path that leads to the north of the lagoon, where you can see the lagoon with Pissis in the background.

 

Volcancito de Troya/La Rioja

Known as Volcancito de Troya or Volcancito de La Rioja, it is a volcano-shaped formation (but it is not a volcano) approximately 12 meters (40 ft) high and has a lake of very green water in what would be the volcano’s crater. To get here, whether from the north or the south, you need to be in a 4×4, know how to drive it well and be aware that, if something goes wrong, days could go by without anyone showing up, so it is recommended that you travel with at least two vehicles.

If you are heading to Volcancito from the south, departing from Villa Unión, you will need to hire a guide to pass through the Laguna Brava area.

 

Laguna Brava

As I explained above, this lagoon is located in a provincial reserve and it is mandatory to hire a guide. In any case, I don’t think Laguna Brava is beautiful enough to be the only destination of the day, but it is worth a stop if you are passing by to visit Volcancito, as this one is truly beautiful.

 

La Herradura

Near the city of Vinchina, in the Quebrada de Troya, the Vinchina River forms a horseshoe-shaped curve, right next to Ruta 76.

 

Cafayate

A very charming little town with great restaurant options, empanadas (visit Casa de las Empanadas), alfajores factories (I recommend Calchaquitos), wineries and it also serves as a base for those who want to visit Quebrada de las Conchas and/or the Angastaco Natural Monument.

The trail to Cascadas del Río Colorado is also beautiful, with a series of beautiful and freezing waterfalls. As there are some difficult sections to scramble, I recommend hiring a guide, but if you have enough experience, you can do it on your own.

 

Quebrada de las Conchas

Just 12 km from Cafayate, it is essential to visit Quebrada de las Conchas, a natural reserve with impressive geological formations that deserve a visit of at least half a day, if you only want to see what is very close to the road, or a whole day, if you also hike the Los Estratos trail, which is worth every step taken not only to see the formation that gives the trail its name, but also for the viewpoint at the end of the path.

 

Angastaco Natural Monument and Cachi

Between Cachi and Cafayate, following Ruta 40, which is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful roads in the world, you will pass by the Angastaco Natural Monument and see many other beautiful formations and wineries. The journey between the two cities takes around 3.5 hours, but consider taking longer because you will make many stops along the way.

Cachi is another town with the title of “Pueblo Auténtico”, which I already explained at the beginning of the article, and is called “pueblo blanco” too because of its buildings which, as you may have guessed, are white.

 

Ruta de los Seis Miles

The section of Ruta 60 between Fiambalá and Paso San Francisco is known as Ruta de los Seis Miles because there are many volcanoes that are over 6,000 m (19,685 ft) high in this region. However, despite the fame of this route, I was not impressed by any part of it, so if you have already traveled at least part of the route that I described in this article, I imagine that you will not be surprised by Ruta de los Seis Miles either.