Map of the Alpine Route of Huayhuash Circuit split in 7 days, with 87 km (54 mi) of distance and 5,635 m (18,487 ft) of elevation.

Description

The Huayhuash Range is part of the central region of the Andes, in Peru. There are several trails, with different starting and ending points, and it is possible to do hikes of 2 or 3 days or spend weeks in its mountains. The most famous trail is the Traditional Circuit, which takes around 9 days to complete. After a lot of research, I decided to take the Alpine Route, also known in Peru as Vía Alta, which uses the same trails as the Traditional Circuit on the first days, but passes through an even more beautiful region from the fourth day onwards. This route is little used because the agencies can’t use the mules to carry the equipment of the clients, so be prepared to take care of yourself in case of problems and be aware that, in many points of the Alpine Route, the trail is not well marked.

The trail is always higher than 4 thousand meters (13,100 ft), except at the end of the last day, when reaching the village. The highest point is Paso Caracara, with 5,138 m (16,857 ft), so it is important to do a good acclimatization before beginning the circuit.

During the day, when there is no wind and clouds, the temperature is high enough to walk around in a t-shirt and shorts, but as soon as the sun goes down, the temperature drops quickly and, at night, the minimums are almost always below freezing point. When I did the circuit, the minimums were between 0 ºC and -8 ºC (32 ºF and 17 ºF), but be prepared to face even lower temperatures, in case of a cold front.

Best season

From May to September is the dry season, with July and August being the coldest months. During this period, rainy days are rare, but you have to be prepared for the worst possible weather, as it can always happen. During the fifty days I spent in the Peruvian mountains during the winter of 2022, it only rained and snowed for some hours in one day.

Base city

Huaraz is the largest city in the region and it’s full of mountaineers in winter, which is the high season, but the prices of accommodation and restaurants are affordable. Plus, there are stores that sell hiking and climbing gear, in case you have any problems with your equipment.

Where to sleep: I stayed at Lhotse Hostel and slept both in the room with a single bed and in the room with a double bed. The single room is small and doesn’t have a window, which bothered me, but the double room has plenty of space and a window that doesn’t offer a view, but at least serves to ventilate. The shower worked well and the bed was good, as was the wifi. Breakfast is served with two breads, one jam, butter, tea, coffee, eggs and one fruit, which varies each day, and the view from the breakfast terrace is beautiful, as you have a 360-degree view to the mountains. The hostel is in the south of Huaraz, not far from Plaza de Armas and restaurants, but the departure points for vans and buses are generally further north of the city. To summarize, there is no luxury, but it’s a good value for money.

Where to eat: I’ve been in twelve restaurants and, among these, the three that stood out are listed below. It is worth mentioning that I did not ask and I did not have any kind of discount, both for accommodation and for the restaurants, I am recommending them on their merit.

• Jama Restaurante: I’ve been there twice. In the first one, I ordered the trout with creamy quinoa and it was fantastic! It was so good that, when I went again, I couldn’t try another dish and I ate it once more. In fact, this trout was the best dish of the entire trip, not just from Huaraz. They does not open for lunch and it is recommended to make a reservation for dinner, as there are few tables and it is usually full. Click to open Jama Facebook.
• Mamma Mia: from noon to 15:00, the restaurant has executive dishes at very good prices (12 to 15 soles). The executives are not as well served as the dishes on the main menu, but the taste is great, not bad for being so cheap. They also sell homemade bread and pastries, and are located in Parque Ginebra, a square that has several restaurants, so don’t be shy about asking everyone’s menu to see what you like best. Click to open Mamma Mia Facebook.
• Chicharronería San Francisco: this is not a tourist restaurant, and in both times I’ve been there, I was the only foreigner. The atmosphere is simple, it’s a little away from Plaza de Armas, but their chicharrón de chancho is delicious, much better than the others I’ve had in Peru. If you’re not familiar with chicharrón de chancho, it’s pork fried in the pork’s own fat, a dish that’s not light but excellent for those looking to regain weight lost in the mountains. Click to open Chicharronería San Francisco Facebook.

Acclimatization

To acclimatize to the altitude, I spent 3 days in Huaraz, that is 3,000 m (9,850 ft) above sea level, and I did easy hikes on the first two days and a moderate hike on the third day. For me it was enough, but each body reacts in a way and that doesn’t depend on how fit you are. If you already know that you have slower acclimatization, it is recommended to spend the first day in the city.

Day 1: Wilcacocha Lagoon, with a maximum altitude of 3,800 m (12,500 ft). It’s not a pretty lake, but the view of the mountains from Huscarán National Park is beautiful and, more important, it’s an easily accessible place for the first or second day of acclimatization. The van leaves from Av. Antonio Raymondi, almost on the corner with Jr. Hualcan. On Google Maps, search for Colectivo to Laguna Wilcacocha. Click to download the tracklog at Wikiloc.

Day 2: Willkawain Ruins and Radian Lagoon Lookout, with a maximum altitude of 3,900 m (12,800 ft). The ruins are very interesting, but the viewpoint to the lagoon is not so beautiful, it’s worth only for the acclimatization. If you want to get to Radian Lagoon, you have to pay for the peasants, but it is worth mentioning that the lake is not as beautiful as the high-altitude lakes of the Andes. The van leaves from the corner of 13 de Diciembre and Jr. Cajamarca. On Google Maps, search for Paradero Wilcahuain. Click to download the tracklog at Wikiloc.

Day 3: Churup Lagoon, with a maximum altitude of 4,500 m (14,760 ft). The lagoon is beautiful, with crystal clear water and in front of Nevado Churup. The trail to it is quite steep and, if you want to go further, you can go up to Churupita Lagoon. The van leaves from Av. Agustín Gamarra, almost on the corner with Antonio Raymondi. On Google Maps, search for Paradero Pitek, Laguna Churup. Click to download the tracklog at Wikiloc.

Another option is to replace two hikes that I mentioned above with the most famous and beautiful lagoons in the region, but for these you will need to rent a car or book a tour with agencies, as they are far from Huaraz.

Laguna Parón: Among all the places mentioned in this article, this is the one that is easiest to reach, as the van will drop you off at the edge of the lake, at 4,206 meters (13,800 ft) above sea level. But if you’re going to get up early and spend hours on the road to get to Parón, be sure to climb to the most famous viewpoint, via a 1.6 km / 1 mi trail (round trip) and an accumulated elevation of 155 meters (508 ft), reaching up to 4,350 meters (14,271 ft) in altitude. Click to download the tracklog on Wikiloc.

Laguna 69: The trail from the van stop to the edge of the lake is 14 km / 8.7 mi (round trip) and has 860 meters (2,821 ft) of accumulated elevation, reaching 4,627 meters (15,180 ft) of altitude. If you’re feeling good, I recommend going to the viewpoint, increasing the trail by 1 km / 0.6 mi (round trip) and climbing another 96 meters (315 ft), totaling 15 km / 9.3 mi (round trip) with an ascent of 960 meters / 3,150 ft (round trip). If you go with your own car, you will have to leave it in the camping area’s parking lot, so the walk will be 16.7 km / 10.4 mi (round trip) with an accumulated elevation of 1,018 meters (3,340 ft). Click to download the tracklog on Wikiloc.

Starting point and how to get there

If you used Huaraz as your base city for acclimatization, the best starting point is Quartelhuain, to do the circuit clockwise. To get to Quartelhuain you need to hire a transport in Huaraz, as there is no regular service there, or you can take a bus to Chiquián and, after arriving, hire a transport. When I arrived at Chiquián, a van driver offered to take me for 200 soles, but I refused and managed to go in a van that was chartered by a family of Canadians, paying only 50 soles. If you are not alone, you can share the amount between your group, but if you are alone, it is good to prepare your pocket or look for people in Huaraz who will also do this hike.

When you arrive at the last campsite (Laguna Hauacocha), ask the guides if there is room in the van, I managed to get back to Huaraz for 40 soles, so I didn’t even need to take the bus in Chiquián. If you don’t find a van, walk to Llamac and ask for transportation, or stay on the road waiting for a van that let people on the beginning of the trail and is going back to Huaraz.

The company that runs Huaraz-Chiquián route is called El Rápido, located at Jr. 28 de Julio, almost on the corner with 3N Road, which gives access to the city. Click here to open their website.

Fees

The circuit is located within the Cordillera Huayhuash Reserved Zone, created on December 20, 2002, with the aim of protecting the 21 mountains that make up the Cordillera Huayhuash massif. The Peruvian government does not charge a fee to the Reserved Zone, but residents of the region charge at various points, whether for camping or just passing through. Below are the charges I had in July 2022, but carry more money as the amounts may increase each season and new charge points may be created. Keep payment receipts as residents may require proof of payment anywhere along the trail. For example, when I was in Quartelhuain, getting ready to start walking, two men came to collect the fees. I didn’t quite understand what they were saying, but I paid, then I saw that they were charging the fees related to Llamac and Pocpa. As I already had paid, I complained and they gave me the money back. It may seem like a misunderstanding, but they should have asked if I had already paid the fees when I went through the villages, instead of charging without saying which place they were referring to. To me, it seems like trickery to charge and see if the person pays without realizing it. The Canadians who were in the same place as me, for example, hadn’t noticed and I warned them to get their money back.
1. Llamac = 50 soles just to cross the village with transport;
2. Pocpa = 20 soles just to cross the village with transport;
3. Campamento Janca = 20 soles;
4. Campamento Carhuacocha = 40 soles;
5. Mirador Tres Lagunas = 30 soles. The name on the receipt is not Mirador, but whoever charged me, as soon as I left Campamento Carhuacocha, said that it is the fee to go through Mirador 3 Lagunas;
6. Campamento Huayhuash = 30 soles;
7. Campamento Jahuacocha = 30 soles.

There are no charges on Alpine Route, but if you do the Traditional Circuit, you will have at least two more fees than the ones I described.

Guide

It is not mandatory to hire a guide to do the trails in Huayhuash, but especially if you go to Alpine Route, it is recommended if you are not an experienced mountaineer. I did it by myself, but if you want to hire one, talk to Fredi Cruz Lumbe, phone/WhatsApp +51 942 667 102. His Facebook is fredi.lumbe.31 and Instagram is fredy_lumbe.

Tracklog to the GPS

Click here to download it at Wikiloc

Itinerary

Below is the route I did, but there are several other trails and camping spots, both on Traditional Route and Alpine Route, also known as Vía Alta among the Peruvians. It is not necessary to follow the same path as me, but I believe that this is the route that passes through the most beautiful viewpoints.

Day 1: Quartelhuain – Mitococha Lagoon
Distance: 10.2 km (6.3 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 616 m (2.021 ft)
Accumulated descent: 509 m (1,670 ft)
Minimum altitude: 4,092 m (13,425 ft)
Maximum altitude: 4,669 m (15,318 ft)

As soon as you leave Quartelhuain, the only climb of the day begins, which in some parts is a little steep. Then, a long descent and all flat up to Janca campsite, which has restrooms. If you’re planning to do the Alpine Route, talk to the person who charges the ticket to find out if you can sleep next to Mitococha Lagoon, but be aware that there are no restrooms there. On the Huayhuash Circuit, do not camp outside official sites if yuo don’t have permission, as locals can fine you.

Day 2: Mitococha Lagoon – Carhuacocha Campsite
Distance: 12 km (7.5 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 638 m (2,093 ft)
Accumulated descent: 655 m (2,149 ft)
Minimum altitude: 4,226 m (13,865 ft)
Maximum altitude: 4,734 m (15,531 ft)

On the second day, the most beautiful route is along the crest that leads to the Paso Yanayana, heading to the viewpoint that leaves you facing the Cordillera Huayhuash massif and with the opposite view that you’ll have on the next day, at Mirador Tres Lagunas. However, if the day is very cloudy or if you don’t want to go up and down, you can follow the old route, which is used by the mules, to go straight to Carhuacocha campsite. This flat path is also a good option for those who want to shorten the circuit in one day, going straight from Quartelhuain to Carhuacocha.

If you choose to go to the lookout mentioned above, be very careful on the descent, which has very steep and slippery stretches, as the trail is not wide open and you have to step on tall grass or in soft dirt, both of which are quite slippery. A fall in that place will lead to, at the very least, many fractures. I advise you to go back a kilometer or two and go down using a much safer path, that’s what I’ll do when I go to Huayhuash again.

In Carhuacocha there are 3 campsites, two of which are already included in the fee, and there is also a private one that is usually with few people, precisely because you have to pay an extra.

Day 3: Carhuacocha Campsite – Huayhuash Campsite
Distance: 13.1 km (8.1 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 624 m (2,047 ft)
Accumulated descent: 929 m (3,048 ft)
Minimum altitude: 4,170 m (13,681 ft)
Maximum altitude: 4,761 m (15,620 ft)

This is the most beautiful day of the Traditional Circuit, with incredible views of the mountains and including the famous Mirador Tres Lagunas, after a short but steep climb. After the lookout, it is still necessary to climb a little to reach Paso Siula, and then there is a long descent to the campsite.

Just before the camping area there is a stall where they sell soft drinks, beer and, if you talk to the lady who is there, she can cook something simple and take it to the campsite.

Click to open a 360 degrees image taken at Gangrajanca Lookout.

Day 4: Huayhuash Campsite – Jurau Lagoon
Distance: 16.5 km (10.2 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 1,313 m (4,307 ft)
Accumulated descent: 1,286 m (4,219 ft)
Minimum altitude: 4,400 m (14,435 ft)
Maximum altitude: 5,117 m (16,788 ft)

On this day there is the separation between those who do the Traditional Circuit and go to Viconga Lagoon, and those who do the Alpine Route and go to Jurau Lagoon. The description in this article is of the Alpine Route, but without crossing the Trapecio Glacier, as I took a longer path: when I arrived at Paso Trapecio, instead of going straight down to Jurau Lagoon, I took a turn to cross the incredible Paso Santa Rosa, making the way more tiring but even more beautiful, by adding one more amazing mountain crossing.

Upon reaching the top of Paso Trapecio, there is a trail that leads to a very beautiful viewpoint, but you have to climb even higher.

The Alpine Route is not well marked as the Traditional, and the chance of meeting people is much lower, so you have to be really self-sufficient.

At Jurau Lagoon there is no structure and no fee.

Day 5: Jurau Lagoon – Caramarca Lagoon
Distance: 7.8 km (4.8 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 769 m (2,523 ft)
Accumulated descent: 547 m (1,794 ft)
Minimum altitude: 4,408 m (14,462 ft)
Maximum altitude: 5,098 m (16,725 ft)

This is a short but demanding hike, as landslides destroyed the trail in many places, making it necessary to walk through unstable terrain, which often slides with the footsteps. Always look for the best path instead of blindly following the GPS. However, all the effort is rewarded with one of the three most beautiful views of the entire circuit, along with Mirador Tres Lagunas and Paso Santa Rosa.

The descent of Paso Sejya, also called Paso Seria, is much easier than the ascent, and if you are not going to cross Paso Rasac the next day, you can continue down to a camping area in Valle Caramarca.

As in Jurau Lagoon, in Caramarca Lagoon there is no structure and fee.

Click to open a 360 degrees image taken at Paso Sejya.

Day 6: Caramarca Lagoon – Jahuacocha Campsite
Distance: 10.8 km (6.7 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 587 m (1,925 ft)
Accumulated descent: 1,049 m (3,441 ft)
Minimum altitude: 4,176 m (13,700 ft)
Maximum altitude: 5,138 m (16,857 ft)

The ascent to Paso Rasac starts just after leaving Caramarca Lagoon. To cross the glacier safely, it is necessary to use crampons, but depending on the conditions of the glacier and the person’s experience in this type of environment, it can be crossed with reasonable safety, but always remembering that it is a very remote place and a rescue can take days.

The safest option is to go down the valley of the Río Sejya to find the Traditional Circuit, ending the trail in Huayllapa or, from there, heading north to Jahuacocha or Llamac.

If you cross the Paso Rasac, the descent can be done on the left of the crest or through the moraine that leads straight to the Barrosococha Lagoon, this path being more difficult and unstable, but with a view of the lagoon. After Barrosococha the trail is much easier, with no points that offer dangers.

The campsite next to Laguna Jahuacocha is quite busy, as it is part of the Traditional Circuit, with restrooms and fee.

Day 7: Jahuacocha Campsite – Pocpa
Distance: 9.2 km (5.7 mi)
Accumulated ascent: 501 m (1,643 ft)
Accumulated descent: 1,064 m (3,490 ft)
Minimum altitude: 3,626 m (11,896 ft)
Maximum altitude: 4,656 m (15,275 ft)

From Jahuacocha you can go to Pocpa or Llamac, depending on where you will take the van. I didn’t have transport scheduled because I didn’t know when I would finish the circuit, so I talked to the guides I found at the campsite and one of them had a room in the van, which would leave from Pocpa. If you can’t find a van in advance, go to Llamac and stop by the gate, so you can talk to anyone who passes by.

The road to Pocpa has only one ascent and then a long descent. There are two paths to Llamac: the shortest path has a climb and views of the mountains, while the longer path has no climbs and no beautiful views, so it all depends on what priority is for you.